Florence Travel Guide

General

A visit to Florence (Firenze) is a must for any art lover. UNESCO estimates that 60% of the world’s most important artworks are in Italy, with over half of them located in Florence. Situated in the northwest of Italy, surrounded by the wine-growing hills of Chianti, the city attracts rapture and frustration in equal proportions. Few can dismiss the image of Brunelleschi’s cathedral dome bursting through the morning mist – a terracotta balloon hovering above the medieval rooftops. But once the visitor drops down to street level, the profusion of traffic, tourists and touts can remove all sense of tranquillity. It seems every building holds a masterpiece, demanding attention and often gobbling up funds. The streets are narrow and dark, enclosed on either side by granite palaces and even the open spaces are crowded with babbling tour groups.

Often called the cradle of the Renaissance, Florence owes much of her wealth to the Middle Ages. Banking became big business on the back of the city’s profitable wool trade and, in 1235, Florence minted the florin, the first gold coin to become standard currency across Europe. In their turn, these bankers commissioned some of the finest art and architecture in the city. The names Strozzi, Rucellai and Pitti can be found all over Florence but it was the Medici family – who led the city for over 300 years off and on – that nurtured the greatest flowering of Renaissance art. The paintings of Botticelli, the sculptures of Michelangelo and the rusticated palaces of Michelozzo all flourished under their rule.

Then, as now, most of the action in Florence took place between Piazza del Duomo and Piazza della Signoria, the city’s civic heart. Here, in the historic centre, Dante – forefather of the Italian language – first glimpsed his muse, Beatrice. Here, the Florentine Republic rose and fell. And here, Savonarola’s Bonfire of the Vanities blazed. Florence, for all her timeless charm, is no stranger to destruction. In 1944, all her bridges, save the Ponte Vecchio, were bombed by the Germans in an attempt to stall the advance of the allies. In 1966, the banks of the River Arno burst, flooding the city with her muddied waters and devastating homes and artwork. Most recently, in 1993, a bomb exploded near the Uffizi Gallery ripping through the museum’s interior and claiming several lives. That said, the only violence most tourists are likely to witness is during the medieval football match on June 24 – Florence’s patron saint day – when petty wrangles can spill onto the pitch.

It is best to avoid the peak summer months of July and August when the weather can be unbearably sticky and the prospect of trailing around museums becomes unappealing. Early autumn, when the countryside glows with mellow fruitfulness, is the best time to visit, avoiding the heat and the queues and capitalising on the soft light, empty streets and the abundance of wild mushrooms and just-pressed olive oil.

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Shopping

Second only to culture in the city comes shopping. Florence has been a centre of craftsmanship since the Middle Ages when shoemakers and goldsmiths were accorded the same status as artists and sculptors. Today, the city remains famous for its high-quality leather produce, goldsmiths and marbled paper. Artisans can still be seen plying their trade in workshops all over the city. The area around Santa Croce is home to the city’s leather-makers, while the Oltrarno is cluttered with the workshops of local gold and silversmiths – although the Ponte Vecchio is home to the glitzier shops.

Designer boutiques cluster around the Via de’ Tornabuoni and Via Calzaiuoli where Versace, Ferragamo, Gucci and Valentino all have stores. The more frugal can find copies in the open-air San Lorenzo Market in Piazza San Lorenzo, northwest of the Duomo. Leather belts and bags, silk scarves and soft wool jerseys can be picked up for a song – although it is advisable to check the quality before buying. Nearby stands the covered food market. Bursting with olives, hams, cheeses and fresh vegetables, it is the perfect place to buy a picnic or just indulge a love of grub. The flea market at Piazza dei Ciompi specialises in antiques and collectable junk and provides an enjoyable rummage for the bargain-hunter.

Specialist shops worth a visit include the Officina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, Via Scala 16. Housed in a frescoed chapel, this old-fashioned chemist was founded by monks in the 16th century. Lotions, potions and herbal remedies abound in elegant packaging. Handmade shoes created in time-honoured tradition can be purchased at Francesco, Via Santo Spirito 62r, while Pineider is considered the most exclusive stationers in all Italy, having designed calling cards for Napoleon, Byron and Maria Callas, among others. As a rule, shops open 0930-1300 and 1530-2000, although larger department stores and supermarkets may stay open throughout the day. Food shops are usually closed on Wednesday afternoons, or Saturday afternoons in the summer. Clothes shops are often closed on Monday mornings. There is limited opening on Sundays. Sales tax is 12-14% depending on the value of goods purchased. Non-EU citizens should retain receipts for goods over L300,000/EUR155 to reclaim their VAT (IVA).

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Sights

Most visitors are overwhelmed by the artistic minefield of Florence. They spend their holiday dashing from one masterpiece to the next – with their nose stuck in a guidebook and their eyes glued to a video camera – dazzled by an excess of genius. The cultural heritage of Florence cannot be ignored. Cradle of the Renaissance and home of the Medici family – Italy’s most progressive art patrons – it houses some of the world’s greatest treasures.

Piazza della Signoria, once the hub of Florence’s political machinations, remains a central reference point for visitors and citizens alike. Visitors can linger over a coffee in one of the square’s gilded cafés and admire the powerful hulk of Michelangelo’s David (a copy) guarding the city’s Palazzo Vecchio, Florence’s town hall since 1322. An array of sculptures, including Cellini’s Perseus brandishing the head of Medusa and Giambologna’s Rape of the Sabine Women, stand under the square’s loggia – an impressive overspill from the nearby Uffizi Gallery. Passing tourists admire the rusticated palazzi that line the square, their solid style underscored by a light Renaissance touch, whose origins can be found in the family palaces of the Strozzi and Rucellai repeated all over Florence.

The square’s landmark crenallated tower, the Torre d’Arnolfo, can be seen best from Piazzale Michelangelo – a balcony over Florence with spectacular views of terracotta roofs, the River Arno and Brunelleschi’s portly dome – all backed by the rolling hills of Chianti. It is the sight of a thousand picture postcards and Merchant Ivory film shots but it never fails to take your breath away.

Buy a Holiday in Florence